Creme Brulee

Cooking class continued:  For dessert, creme brulee.  And why not, we are gearing up for Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday.

So as soon as our Shrimp Etouffee was simmering away we jumped into creme brulee, which I am not technically spelling correctly.  (There should be an accent in creme and a little clown hat over the u and another accent over the last ee's in brulee, but technically I have no idea how to make the computer type them.  So please forgive me, I really do know they exist.)  Anyway, it is easier to make creme brulee than type it!

It is so similar to my Zabaglione gelato recipe that I can whip it up in a matter of minutes.  I split a vanilla bean and let it steep in heavy cream while I whisk egg yolks and sugar together.  When the egg yolks and sugar begin to change colors, from lemon egg yolk yellow to creamy butter yellow, I put the cream over medium heat.  Just about the time the egg yolks are super light and fluffy the cream is beginning to just bubble around the edges of the pan--perfect timing.  

I carefully add a little of the warm cream to the egg mixture and stir it around, to temper the eggs.  Gradually, I combine the cream and eggs until they are one.  Watch out for the vanilla bean, when it becomes visible, I fish it out and scrape out every little tiny seed and add them all to the custard. I add a little Marsala wine because it really puts an Italian spin on these very French puddings.

I like to transfer everything to a measuring cup with a good handle and clean pouring spout to make it easier to fill the ramekins.  I put all the ramekins into a baking dish and place it near the oven, fill the ramekins about 3/4 full and slide everything into the oven.  Then I make a nice water bath for my little custards and bake them for 25 to 30 minutes.  So easy.

After baking, the ramekins need to chill out in the fridge to set the custard and prepare them for the brulee.  After chilling for at least three hours the puddings are ready for the torch.  Sprinkle them with a light coating of extra-fine sugar and then set the flame.

Notice that the ramekin is on a non-flamable surface.  Smart, no!

 Nearly ready...

Perfetto!

Seriously--creme brulee is a super easy super show-off dessert, so impressive with so little effort.  You must have a torch, I tried to get a beautiful brulee (which just means burnt) in the broiler but it is really tricky.  So make life easy and get a little torch.  Before my sis gave this one to me, I just used the farm torch--you know, the kind you get at the ranch store!

I love this moment:  Vanilla cream and burnt sugar mingle in the air.  Dear friends and family are gathered around my table and EVERYONE is smiling.  Taking a cue from me, we raise our spoons in unison and CRACK--the table comes alive to the cacophony sugar crackling and laughter!

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Crème Brulee

2 c. cream

1 vanilla bean or 1 tsp. vanilla

½ c. sugar

6 egg yolks

pinch of salt

¼ c. Marsala wine

3 T. superfine sugar

Preheat oven to 325. 

Pour cream into a medium saucepan.  Split vanilla bean and add it to the cream and let it steep.

Separate egg yolks and put them into the bowl of a mix-master, or into a medium bowl.  Add ½ c. sugar, a pinch of salt and either mix on medium speed or using a whisk, mix the egg yolks and sugar until they are light and fluffy.  I mix until it turns the color of butter—the egg yolk and sugar will become lighter and lighter in color and texture.

Meanwhile heat the cream over medium heat until it begins to steam and just begins to form bubbles along the edges.  Stir frequently to avoid forming a skin on the top of the cream.

Carefully add some of the cream to the egg mixture, stir and repeat this process until the cream and milk are completely combined.  Do this gradually to temper the eggs.  Watch for the vanilla bean and fish it out before it slips into the egg mixture.  Use a small spoon to scrape the “caviar” out of the bean and add every little seed possible to the egg/cream mixture.  Add the Marsala wine.  Stir well to incorporate the vanilla seeds and transfer the custard into eight 8 oz. ramekins. 

Transfer the ramekins to a baking and place in the center rack of the oven.  Pour enough boiling water into the baking dish until the water level reaches halfway up the ramekins.  Bake 25-30 min.  Do not let custards brown.

Remove baking dish from oven and ramekins from baking dish.  Set ramekins on a wire rack to cool for a few minutes and then chill them in the fridge.  Custards need to chill for at least 3 hours to set, I usually do them a day ahead.

Just before serving, place ramekins on a flameproof surface, like a baking sheet, and sprinkle each with just enough superfine sugar to cover the surface, about a half a teaspoon.  Using a kitchen torch, flame each custard to the desired point.  Serve immediately.

Shrimp Etouffee

 I woke this morning dreaming I was in New Orleans--the smell of onions, peppers and garlic simmering with shrimp lingering in the air.   Mmm--mmm, Shrimp Etouffee!  The featured dish of our second cooking class this season, perfect timing for Mardi Gras and/or Valentines Day next week.

"Etouffee" means smothered, shrimp etouffe means sweet succulent shrimp smothered in a spicy southern gravy.   If you want a delicious gravy you must start with a good stock, which means homemade.  Etouffee is a quick cooking simple meal so you can afford a little extra time and effort to create this rich base.  This is how I made mine.  

A few hours before class I peeled and chopped up an onion and a carrot and roughly diced up some celery.  Then I smashed some big garlic cloves, pulled their skins off and threw everything into my big stock pot.  I tossed in a bay leaf, some pepper corns and dried thyme.  Then I peeled the shrimp, saving and rinsing the shells to put in the stock.

I added enough water to cover everything and set it to boil.  As soon as it boiled the scents began dancing around the kitchen.  When RT came in from a little greenhouse work, he nearly cried with joy.  I let this beautiful mixture simmer for awhile and then let it steep until class.

Each arriving guest was greeted with this wonder smell, a nice glass of wine and we got cooking!

When I drained the shrimp stock, I got a little over 3 cups.  I seasoned it to taste with about a teaspoon and a half of salt.  We had a little tasting and my students were surprised by complexity of this simple concoction.  If you want good gravy, start with a good stock.

The next crucial step is making the roux.  A roux is so simple--two ingredients, butter and flour.  With a little heat and a little attention and you have buttery caramel colored gold, but the attention is important.  I set "Sofie"--she's my Lodge 6 quart red enameled Dutch oven--a gift from my dear husband--over medium heat and dropped in the butter.  As soon as it melted I began to stir in the flour.  It is a simple as that, just watch and stir, watch and stir.  Don't answer the phone, don't text, don't stop stirring to take a pic for the blog--just stir and watch.  I think of it as my butter meditation--ommmmm. 

The butter will start to turn colors--off white, ecru, tan--getting deeper and richer.  You are looking for the color of peanut butter, not Skippy or Jiff, but a nice whole peanut natural peanut butter.   As soon as we got a real deep golden peanuty color we introduced the "holy trinity" of Creole vegetables:  onion, celery and green peppers.  You just drop these right in and keep on stirring.

 

After about 3 minutes, bamm!  I tossed in the seasoning, a big spoonful of Emeril Lagasse's special blend and when that combination of spices hit the room there was swooning.  (You'll find a recipe below.)  Then we tossed in the garlic, bay leaves and a pint of my home-canned tomatoes and let everybody mingle.  As soon as this was bubbly I added the shrimp stock and let it all come to a boil and cook just until the vegetables were crisp-tender--like al dente for veggies.

With timer in hand, I added the shrimp, covered Sofie and let her do her magic for three minutes.  We all gathered around for the unveiling--ta da!  Three minutes, perfect shrimp, pink and just cooked through--I pulled Sofie off the flame and ladled steaming etouffee over mounds of white rice.  A sprinkle of fresh parsley and we met at the table for some serious sensory input...heavenly.  

Etouffee creates the perfect bite:  savory gravy rich in texture and flavor.  The herbs and spices set the stage for the sweet onions and garlic.  The celery and peppers add another layer of flavor that's accented with a good bit of heat,  a perfect setting for sweet succulent shrimp.  The rice is an excellent vehicle for all this flavor because it fills the mouth, adding another texture and allows one to linger over and savor each bite. 

I can hardly wait for lunch, there being just enough etouffee for one big lunch or two small.  I think I will make a really nice sandwich to distract RT--fat chance of that happening if you know my husband.

Shrimp Etouffee

4 T. butter

¼ c. flour

1 onion, chopped

1 green bell pepper, chopped

1 c. celery, chopped

2 T. garlic

1 14 oz. can tomatoes, diced

2 bay leaves

1 T. Creole Seasoning

2 c. shrimp stock

1 lb. shrimp

parsley, chopped

Brine the shrimp by combining 1 tsp. of salt and enough water to cover the shrimp in a medium sized bowl.  Stir to dissolve the salt and add the shrimp.  Place in the fridge.

Start the rice.  As soon as your rice begins to boil, begin your etouffee.  It cooks quickly and the two dishes should be ready about the same time.

Make a roux:  melt butter in a large Dutch oven set over med. heat.  Add the flour and stir constantly until it turns the color of peanut butter.  Do not leave your roux!  Do not answer the phone, talk to your mate or become distracted by anyone or anything.  Your roux deserves your undivided attention for the next 5-7 minutes.  Think of it as a meditation.  Just you, melted butter and flour…

The moment it turns the proper caramel color add the onions, pepper, celery and garlic and cook stirring often, 5-10 minutes.  Add the seasoning and stir for 30 seconds, until the fragrance fills the air and then add the bay leaves and tomatoes.  Cook for 2-3 minutes, and add the shrimp stock.

When the vegetables are just tender, drain the shrimp and add to the etouffee.  Cook for 3-5 minutes, just until the shrimp are cooked through.  Serve immediately over white rice garnished with freshly chopped parsley.

Creole Seasoning

2 ½ T. paprika

2 T. garlic powder

1 T. black pepper

1 T. cayenne pepper

1 T. dried oregano

1 T. dried thyme

Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight container.

Use it as a rub for fish and chicken.  Use it in sautés and gumbo.  Excellent rubbed into salmon and dusted onto shrimp to sauté in a little oil or grill.  Even good on freshly popped pop corn. 

Shrimp stock

shrimp shells, rinsed

1 onion, coarsely chopped

½ c. celery, coarsely chopped

1 carrot, coarsely chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

1 bay leaf

1 t. black pepper corns

½ t. thyme

salt to taste

Combine all ingredients in a large stock-pot and cover with cold water.  Bring to the boil, reduce and simmer for 45 min.  Turn off the heat.  Add salt to taste and strain.  Freeze any unused stock.